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Highlights not shared in this video podcast: The smell is often dependent on the water it grows. Not all of it smells bad. Its growth pattern is highly dependent on the location it grows and the strain of this particular species. Many are just as columnar as Tulip Magnolia (Liriodendron tulipifera) and size wise they are about the same overall with many Liriodendron dwarfing same-aged Eastern Cottonwood (Eastern Cottonwood) but again this is very region and variant strain related… This was a common “cook wood” for homesteaders when in small branches as it coals nicely but does not split easily due to the parenchyma cell structure similar to the Elms and Hackberrys. This is the main reason it is not used for firewood…not the smell at all…It does “ash out” more than other hardwoods. Overall, one of my favorite species for everything from Timber Frames (just finished one last year) to furniture…The trick to working with hand tools…oil and wax…while working it…

Lee's post on a drinking cup...Just a point of info about making a cup out of wood...Just go for it. Traditional methods are always going to win over "plastic coatings" of any kind 99.9% of the time. I would not support or encourage this "Kickstarter" as it is one more "I think" notion of a modern DIYer woodworker trying to reinvent the wheel. Traditional wood drinking vessels work just fine… Curred or not, the “issue” is delamination over time, from cyclic changes between the plastic film and the wood. Additionally, not all plastic finishes are the same and some will leach while others are less prone to…all are a lesser material for food contact over time rather than just plain wood that is traditionally worked, finished, and maintained as such… P.S. “Zelkova” (Zelkova serrata) is a fairly common ornamental that has been in North America since the 1800s. Most of the elm and related species work great and for a drinking cup/mug, I would just use Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) which is perfect for this application and similar to Zelkova in characteristics overall…

In the house that I grew up in , we had à cottonwood in the backyard. It was at least 80 ft tall and at least 20 ft around. That was when I was a kid and it is still there and I'm now 65 years.m

This takes me back to my childhood. I was my grampa's shop helper from the time I could walk. I adored him and loved being in his shop with him. My grandmother even made me my canvas apron. I helped clean, and carry items and all the while grampa was teaching me the principles of woodworking. By age ten, I had been using handtools and was ready to use some of his old Walker Turner machines. He taught me how to stand and hold my arm in line with my stance. Now at 62, I still love learning new techniques and methods of woodworking. That is what keeps it fun after more than 50 years. Most recently, I have been studying Korean and Japanese joinery. A lot of fun with so many angles through tenons, and mortices in every combination one can think of. It was daunting to look at but once you understand the principles of the methods, it becomes easier along with lots of practice, lol!

You also missed that Cottonwoods are kind of a nuisance in the spring. Not having Cottonwoods in your area you wouldn't get the opportunity to experience how they got their name. The seeds that they "drop" are these white cottony things that fly all over the place and get sucked into to EVERYTHING, your car, lawnmower, tractors, house, etc.

Charles Ingalls was born in the town where I live in Western New York.

Love this format Shannon! Great video!

I always wondered what a cotton wood tree looked like. Thank you for the information. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂

The bark is prized by wood carvers.

I used to cut and sell firewood as a teenager in the PNW. No one, absolutely no one, would buy and burn cottonwood. Smells bad, and burns like paper when fully seasoned. The main complaint being the soot it would leave within chimneys. Within the lumber industry, I never came across black cottonwood other than perhaps custom orders. Otherwise, logging shows would simply either leave them stand as riparian survivors, or just leave them as nurse logs and biomass.

I've listened to the podcast since episode 1 and really enjoy the content, so this isn't meant to troll and hope it's taken as constructive and well-intended feedback. I think you need to choose, are you podcasting or producing video content. This felt rushed and the mix of poor audio and jumps in video made it difficult to either listen or watch. The podcasts have been great, I've learned a ton and I look forward to them. I'll continue to follow your content, regardless of format as I think most people will given the quality of the information, but I think it'd be easier for you to pick a format and better overall for your followers.

I like this format. Please keep it up.

Thank you

Used to used a Mitre saw but after watching your demo finally chirped up enough confidence to try it out. I had 2 not quite accurate starts but not far off. Then banged off about 10 in a row. All good. Probably won’t need ten 45deg mitres in a year but good to know I can do And so much quicker than setting up the old way

There are so many people putting woodworking tool videos out. For the record- I always find myself coming back to yours. And Paul Sellers. Most recently I’m turned off by the workers that have spotless benches. Perfect clean aprons. Art level tool cabinets complete w/ every place a company makes. I’d rather listen to you while wondering what my next project will be. So- thanks for doing it your way.

Thanks

Very pretty color. Great bookshelf.

I never understood the idea that “hey I didn’t have to sharpen the blade out of the box”. Well you’re gonna have to sharpen it eventually! And you’re gonna be sharpening it a lot. So what difference does it make. If you use them equally, you would have sharpened the LN one fewer time.

41k views, 56 comments?! You deserve better

@ 13:40: do you start the cut on the line or on the outside? Thank you for sharing your knowledge !

Makes sense to me. It looks easy enough. I guess I should try it.🙂🙂

Have you heard about the the wood fiber insulation in Maine?

I live near them and they are my source for all my materials . These guys are great!

I’m always learning something new from you, Shannon!

That stool looks “really” uncomfortable 😂

Having lived around the conifer forests of the Pacific Northwest for the past 65 years, I never knew someone could build an hour-long discussion around hemlock! Learned quite a bit here Shannon! Thanks!

Shannon would I be correct in saying once my cut is started I could finish the cut free hand fairly easily? I know this is an old video and I can cut free hand I just think David is such a decent guy he makes me want to buy his guide.

Screw hammering veneer, with all that Titebond has to offer and with vacuum pressing it is easier and works a lot better.

Thanks for answering the monocot question--it's one I've been thinking of asking you. I do a little bit of carving and have found significant difference among palm species. I haven't carved red or black, but sabal and California fan generally offer solid wood all the way through. It's not particularly hard (although those I've carved grew in clay/loam rather than sandy soils). Mexican fan palm, on the other hand, is so fibrous it is like trying to carve rope, only offering somewhat solid wood close to the base. As these palms each have a growth tip and will not regrow from the roots if that is removed, my assumption is that age impacts the density of palm wood with density decreasing the closer one gets to the growth tip. I can confirm that palms retain a lot of water and are insanely heavy when first felled.

If you used them for a workbench and not just flooring or cutting boards could they be Roubo Monocots?

I’m a woodworker three times over by virtue of that opening line (plus my wall…)

How do they pull the cauls down. I don’t understand how tightening that bolt pulls them together.

Болтун

I guess I'm a zealot

For the simple spokeshaves, those without adjusters, I like to tap them against a surface for the micro adjustments, yet this Lie Nielsen seems too delicate or fancy for that...

Mommy, why is that poor man left handed? (Oh also thanks for the knowledge and good video and stuff like that) 😊

thanks...nerd is good

Might be the camera, but the finishing does not look good, and the joints a bit gappy... The centre doors obscure the side doors. Why do the side doors have inner walls? or, indeed, tops and bottoms? not used for anything, and take space and material. Some hardware to keep the doors closed would be useful. I like to machine them myself- give a custom fit.

When doing these things just remember the ergonomics be them it's not just workholding

So nice to see things from the left-handed perspective. Great info and thanks for the video!

I bought a 12" bad axe dovetail saw and really struggled starting the cut. It would bog down, skip and bind--even after following advice in other videos. The exercise at around 7:30 was key for me. I also think a factor was that I was accustomed to pushing the saw away with weight down from using Japanese saws for many years.

Shannon the cookie holding a lot of moisture is counter intuitive to me. I always understood that moisture escapes from end grain much faster( hence coating the endgrain to equalize moisture transfer. ) A cookie seems to have a disproportionate amount of endgrain. So it seems it might dry too fast. What am I missing?

Here in Oregon, the locally owned lumberyard/ home improvement center sells dimensional lumber, both KD (around here ~16-20% moisture) and "Standard & Better" (~25-30% moisture).

Sapele is my current favorite wood. Yes, pretty dusty, but easy to work with. Post below warns of tear out, but I don't recall any tear out. And readily available (make sure its quarter-sawn or rift sawn). My finish for sapele is 4 coats shellac, 4 coats AquaCoat grain filler, then water based poly.

Love it all. Great job and great information.

Thanks for this rich and integrated wood tech nerd-out. Professional documentation tends toward dry and academic, yet your discussion connects the (fascinating) science to the boots on the ground world of woodwork. You've just increased RUclips's IQ. Mine too... I hope. 😎

I'm using/used Sapele for trays and ultimately el. guitar neck (my first one). Most of the pieces i have are 15 cm wide , quarter or rift sawn. It's a cross grained wood that does surprise you while hand planing. It likes to tear out pretty deeply so i would be careful. In the begining take small cuts trying to learn particular piece to minimize tear out while planing. Reasonably hard, porous but not too much. I like it. . Like the smell, and when got right, it planes/scrape nicely. P.s. i hate that f*** red dust while sawing 😄, same At the same time i have Luan but also Meranti and at least where i got them, they are different in smell and appearance. Both are pretty lightweight (Luan is lighter) , but Meranti is just gorgeous wood. Looks really nice, lot of modular (or something similar) rays and it hand planes like a butter. If it had a little bit better ding resistance it would be my favourite wood (other then ebony 😁).

Loving this series Shannon - appreciate the video and have a great day in the shop.

Really appreciate this video since work holding seems to be my nemesis. I’ve never managed to get to grips (no pun intended) with planing stops and dogs, etc. But now I’ll have another go at the techniques shown since I find my vice to often be a hindrance when it comes to checking progress.